Though the Pantanal is over 700 miles from the ocean, water covers 80 percent of the land during the rainy season.
Amazingly, with the overabundance of predators, including poachers, the Pantanal is still chockfull of critters. Unlike the Amazon where most of the species are well hidden by vegetation, it is hard to miss the animals in the Pantanal. 650 species of birds coexist amongst 80 species of mammals and 50 types of reptiles, including the infamous sucurí or anaconda. Most commonly spotted is the capybara—an overgrown guinea pig.
The Caiman
Most intriguing are the roadside marshes rimmed with black bodies of live jacaré or caiman. White herons daringly fish for their dinner on the banks right next to them. Perhaps the birds know that the caiman will not attack since they don’t want to get their teeth wet. Interestingly, the caiman stay on the banks with their mouths open in order to dry up leeches that become embedded in their gums. Once the moisture is depleted, the leeches fall out.
Bird Watching
The dry season, July to September, is ideal for spotting the giant Jabiru stork—the symbol of the Pantanal—with their young. It is a wonder that these aviary giants can become airborne—reaching sizes of a meter high and three meters in width. The branches, upon which their nests rest, groan with the weight of the clotted twigs the storks pile up. These lifelong homes are remodeled each year in time for mating season.
Toucans find it hard to disguise themselves. Their banana beaks, as big as their bodies, give them away. The beak that assists in food scavenging would be a big downfall in flight if it were not a lightweight spongy material. The Bem-ti-vi, or “Nice to see you,” is a yellow-bellied bird named for the call they make. The kingfishers make impressive dives into the water, and somehow always return with a fish.
Piranha Fishing
Piranhas bite quickly. Interestingly, fishermen and tourists stand in the waters they are fishing from. Piranhas do not have the natural tendency to eat human flesh. The man-eating fish received their bad rap when Amazonian natives—in order to impress Teddy Roosevelt—threw a jaguar into a school of starved piranha, so the ravenous fish devoured the animal. They are carnivorous though, so fishing is easy with a chunk of meat on a hook.
Seasons
July to September, during the dry winter season, the days are clear and sunny. Sleeping in a hammock in the summer may be pleasant and cool, but it is downright chilling in the winter when the temperature drops to 50°F. This is a great time for watching birds and the animals that gather near riverbanks. During the rainy season, October through March, the Pantanal is experienced on boats, as the dirt roads are submerged. It’s also good for viewing animals since they are concentrated in the dry areas.
Service Information
Trips around the world’s largest swamp can be arranged from the Caiman Ecological Refuge, awarded the 2007 Tourism for Tomorrow award. This is the more comfortable option; rooms are equipped with TV/DVD, air-conditioning and hot water. The refuge is also a scientific research haven, currently housing the Projeto Arara Azul, in response to the diminishing blue macaw population. GETTING THERE The refuge lies 236 kilometers from Campo Grande. Transportation can be arranged through the refuge, leaving the Campo Grande Airport, Thursdays and Sunday at 1:00pm and 5:00pm. Helicopter transport or private van rental is also an option. (55)11-3706-1800; doubles $176 per person Jan 3-May 31, $226 per person June 1-Jan 4.
Ecological Expeditions offers camping and basic lodge accommodations. The guides are informative, funny and have a passion for the wildlife. A night at the hostel in Campo Grade is provided before heading out to the wild. You can choose from a 3, 4 or 5-day excursion. GETTING THERE The company will provide transportation from the base office across from the bus terminal in Campo Grande.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
