Tropical palms and banana trees live in harmony next to spruce and pine. Cozy chalets snuggle into the forest, while others sit high in the rolling sunlight hills affording a view into the valley below. Near the banks of the Rio Preto that separates the state of Rio from Minas Gerais, tadpoles hang out waiting to grow their legs. Calves with ears big enough to take them into flight graze the emerald made-in-Switzerland mountains.
Visconde de Mauá is the perfect romantic getaway, or for those just wishing for a serene place in the mountains, away from the hustle and bustle. Visitors can expect to a trip to the waterfalls. Mountain-biking, waterfall rappelling, tubing or canoe trips can be arranged, or it’s just as nice to relax riverside. There are numerous restaurants in the area, ranging from Italian to regional.
Where to Stay:
Three villages make up the Visconde area. Mauá is the main section where the locals live. The posh shops and restaurants are in Maringa, five kilometers up the dirt road, and Maromba, where the hippies strum on guitars, is another four kilometers upriver. Natural chalets built among the rocks at Jardim das Aguas (55-24-3387-1547, $80) are scattered along twisted Zen-like paths through the trees. The cheery suites are equipped with whirlpool tubs and full kitchens. Overlooking the Mauá village, Pousada Vista Alegre (55-24-3387-1223, $75) offers spectacular views of the valley and river. Whirlpools and fireplaces inside the sunny yellow chalets ensure complete relaxation.
Where to Eat:
On the road between Maringa and Maromba, Enrique, a Cuban-Floridain, entertains his guests with live music at El Cubano ($15-30.) He calls it “Cuban with a country twang.” The food is a combination of Tex-Mex and Cuban. The trout tacos and enchiladas, his mother’s blend, utilize the trout-ridden waters of the river. The sweet banana daiquiri makes for a nice dessert drink. Three hundred meters uphill from Maromba, Pousada da Gruta (55-24-3387-1393) serves up typical Minero dishes. Try the Tutu, a hearty plate of thick bean porridge, rice, sausages, fried pork rinds and collared greens. Girassol Oficina de Pizzas (55-24-3387-1617, Maringa Shopping, $10-$30) serves pizza and crepes to please all taste buds. Try the Oriental chicken or the plain margarita. For dessert, the chocolate coconut crepe overtakes any cake. Guests dine to live music on the weekends.
How to get there:
From Rio’s Terminal Rodoviário Novo Rio (bus station), take a bus (two hours) to Resende (Cidade do Aço line, 0-800-254022) where you can catch one of the hourly local buses to Visconde de Mauá (two hours.)
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