During Carnival in Salvador the city population doubles in size, and it seems like every single person is out on the streets enjoying the celebration. While Rio boasts the Rua Marquês de Sapucaí, a 700 meter street home to the biggest parade on Earth, nearly the entire city of Salvador is crawling with revelers, bands, and beautiful costumes the entire week of Carnival.
Carnival Schedule and Routes
It's impossible to roam the streets of Salvador during Carnival and not hear some live samba reggae. The schedule for parade routes, parties, and other goings-on can get a little complicated.
There are three circuits for the live bands that perform on giant trucks known as trio elétricos. One route runs along the ocean, from Barra to Ondina. The trio circuit starts in Campo Grande, Salvador's biggest park, and heads to Praça Castro Alves. The Pelourinho circuit in Salvador's historical district doesn't feature trios, but instead showcases the older "marching" blocos like Ilê Aiye.
Party-goers have a few options as far as watching the trios. The cheapest way to see a variety of musical acts is to join the "pipoca" (popcorn)- that is, the crowd of rowdy dancers that cram themselves onto every street and alley. When the trucks pass by, the crowd seems to triple in volume, bodies packed tightly together and jumping in time with the beat.
Some people choose their favorite trio and purchase a ticket to join the bloco. Bloco members are given matching shirts unique to their band and follow their trio along the entire route. With many trios, a second double-decker truck trails behind the band's trailer, complete with a bar, bathroom, and of course, more room to dance. Both trucks are secluded by a circle of security officers carrying a thick rope, which they often use mercilessly in keeping the pipoca at bay.
For those that enjoy watching but don't want to participate directly in the action, camarotes are a great option. Camarotes are giant stands built onto the sides of buildings and along the streets of most of the circuits. A ticket, which ranges in price depending on the camarote, provides an excellent view of all trios as they pass, and most come complete with a bar, restaurant, bathroom, and dance floor.
Carnival Bands and Artists
With the entire city partying non-stop for a solid week, it's no surprise that nearly all of Brazil's seemingly endless supply of musicians come out to play.
Olodum and Ilê Aiyê, Brazil's premier samba reggae blocos, are the main attraction on the Pelourinho route. Another bloco, Timbalada, kicks off the festivities by starting their route Wednesday morning at the Farol da Barra (lighthouse of Barra), ending in Ondina.
Some of the more popular trio elétricos in past years have included Gilberto Gil, Daniela Mercury, Babado Novo, Ivete Sangalo, Banda Eva, and Margareth Menezes.
Party Safely
Carnival in Salvador is heavily policed, and while violence is often a risk in large, raucous crowds, the overall statistics are quite good. Fights do break out, and even though they are usually dispersed quickly, tourists should be aware.
By far the biggest danger at Carnival is pick-pocketing. The throngs of people that cram together when a band is passing can often make it difficult to do anything other than stumble along with the crowd. The savvy tourist should anticipate dozens of roaming fingers sliding into their pockets.
Play it safe: revelers should avoid bringing any documents if at all possible, and keep any cash in their shoes or an inside pocket or pouch.
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