Brazil's Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros, north of Brasilia, affords gorgeous views and hikes through savannah scrub land, valleys and spectacular falls.
"Hey, would you like to join us?"
A guy in his 20s has motioned us over. It's about 9 am and we're strolling the dusty streets of Sao Jorge, a sleepy village at the entrance to Brazil's Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros (translation: park of deers).
This is how it works: every morning people walk the 1 km to the park's entrance where they join up into larger groups and procure the services of one of the official guides. It only costs 60 BRL ($30) for one guide – ganging up spreads the cost.
The young man motioning to us already has a guide, and also a friend with him. Turns out they're from Britain and soon, an older Chilean couple have joined us.
Chapada dos Veadeiros – located three hours north of the capital Brasilia - sits atop a giant mass of quartz. This explains the hippy atmosphere in the region, lots of crystal sellers and healthy folk.
The park has two official trails and you can only visit the park with a guide. It's an undulating valley of spectacular falls, rugged savannah forests and dessert-like vistas. It takes a full day to do each trail and one can easily spend four to six days doing hikes both within the park and in the area.
The first hike we decide to do goes to Cariocas Falls. Although the terrain is relatively easy, the hike down and up from the falls is steep. Fortunately for us, one of the British lads speaks fluent Portuguese and is able to translate what the guide is saying.
HIKE TO CARIOCA FALLS
Along the way, we are told about the features of the area, passing by giant holes where people used to mine for crystals. When we reach Carioca Falls, it's a stunning canyon set off with two narrow falls plunging into a wide pool of water. It gets lusher as we go down. We take an hour break (bringing our own lunches) and swim along with other hikers at the pool. The guide brings us through a slightly different route home, stopping by yet another swimming area with small cascades of mini-waterfalls.
At one point, as our guide it pointing out the characteristics of a tree, a large group of Brazilian hikers troop past. It's quite a sight: as we foreigners in our hiking boots and gear watch, the Brazilians - in flip-flops, bikini tops and swimming trunks - march past. The British lads just shake their heads: "Brazilians!"
On the next day, our second hike brings us through two other canyons in the park. This time, our female guide offers to oil our knees with a rather smelly herbal lubricant prior to the hike. What the heck, why not? The guide, a former nurse, tells us she's been in the area for a decade and also works as a massage therapist. She is well-informed about the herbal remedies available through the different plants – one plant emits a viscous liquid that's good for your chapped lips.
SHEEP'S EARS - 'NATURE'S TOILET PAPER'
At one point, I tell our guide that I need a bathroom break. She tells me I should take some of "nature's toilet paper" with me – a plant with broad leaves coated in velvety fuzz – called Sheep's Ears. I disappear behind a few rocks and can report, the Sheep's Ears are useful.
This walk takes us to another set of falls, wider with more rocks, and a much steeper climb down. The hike has a second stop at yet another set of falls – equally stunning and lovely to swim in.
The town of Sao Jorge is relaxing. We stay at a lodge-like bed and breakfast – Pousada Agua Esperanca – for the great price of 500 BRL ($250) for four nights. The breakfast, made by owner Guillaume, is massive – homemade coconut or banana bread, melt-in-your-mouth cheese balls, cold cuts, cheese and a few cakes. Freshly squeezed juice and coffee top it all off.
Sao Jorge is home to a nice array of pousadas and cafes. We spend one night at the Aguas de Marco pousada eating fabulous and cheap tapioca crepes stuffed with carne du sol (sun-dried salty meat) and a creamy cheese and one with eggplant (yum!) costing $2 each. It's washed down with beautiful Brahma beer.
Another night, we dine by the pool and candlelight at Casa das Flores.
Other equally spectacular hikes, outside of the park, include Sao Bento's Farm (which charges 10 BRL each to enter) and the ethereal moonscape of the Vale de Luna (very easy and nice for a cool dip).
