Where to Sleep and Eat in Parati
Restaurants, Live Music, Bars and Accommodation in Parati, Brazil
Dec 29, 2007
A town as popular with tourists as Parati can be a nightmare for finding good quality and value restaurants, bars and accommodation. There are hundreds of hotels and restaurants but no way to choose between them. Here's a pick of the best.
Where to Sleep: Parati Accommodation
There are cheap rooms-a-plenty in Parati, mostly along the road between the Rodoviária bus station and the entrance to the historic centre. Many are excellent value, around R$50 (US$28) per night for a double room, and owners are generally friendly. Do check that lights and fans work, and whether hot water is available, before agreeing to stay.
For a bit more peace, a friendly family atmosphere and the best view in Paraty, head for the Pousada Morro do Forte, just over the bridge from the main town.
If you want all the mod cons of a city hotel – TV, minibar, bar, games room, swimming pool, sauna, room service – and don’t mind paying for the privilege, the central Pousada Porto Imperial should fit the bill.
Where to Eat: Parati Restaurants
Parati has a growing – and deserved – reputation as a gourmet town. Foodies should visit during the yearly Folia Gastronômica in mid-November. Chefs from all over Brazil are invited to prepare special feasts in the 35 or so restaurants which actively take part. There are also demonstrations, workshops, and courses in cookery and barmanship open to all – book classes and accommodation well in advance.
At other times of the year, you can still get an excellent feed for a low price. There are over 150 restaurants in and around the centre, many offering variations on the typical Bahian-style moqueca de peixe or simple grilled fresh fish and rice.
One of the best places to eat fish is the Refugio restaurant (Praça da Bandeira, 3371 2447). It's cosy and well decorated, and although fairly pricey has a good reputation for innovative fish and seafood dishes. Another good place for fish is the Sabor do Mar (Rua Domingos Conçalves de Abreu, 3371 1872) – you can choose your own fish in the market and sit back while they prepare it for you.
If you're more a meat-eater and want some simply home-style Brazilian cooking without the pretensions and high prices, you can’t beat Netto (Rua da Lapa 402, 3371 0049) or the Restaurante Panela de Ferro (Rua Domingos Conçalves de Abreu, 3371 0049).
Cheaper pay-by-weight restaurants and snack bars can be found between the bus station and the entrance to the historic centre. Otherwise, simply take the local advice – the busiest restaurant is usually the best.
Where to Boogie: Nightlife in Parati
On summer nights, you can't hear yourself think for live music coming out of practically every bar along the busy streets. Some of the musicians are excellent – try Café Paraty (Rua do Comércio 253, 3371 1464), Paraty33 (Rua da Lapa 357, 3371 7311) and Margarida Café (Praça do Chafariz, 3371 2441), for nightly live Bossa Nova, MPB (Musica Popular Brasileira) and jamming sessions. Beware the hefty cover charge – to avoid it, simple buy a beer in the supermarket and stand in the street outside.
For real, free live music and dance sit in Praça da Matriz at the weekend. There are bars lining the square and stalls selling ice-cream and trinkets along the main road, and the place is a hotspot for young local musicians. You'll often see men practising capoeira, the African-influenced dance-cum-martial arts form most popular in northern Brazil.
Brazilian Bonecos: Parati's Puppet Show
If you’re more of a culture fan, buy a ticket for the tiny Teatro Espaço (Rua Dona Geralda 327, 3371 1575), which puts on its famous silent puppet shows (teatro de bonecos) every Wednesday and Sunday at 9pm. The puppets are surprisingly realistic when expertly manipulated by their black-clothed puppeteers.
As a popular tourist destination from Rio de Janeiro, rooms are often packed out at weekends, in summer and during festivals. If you're fussy about where you stay, make sure you book well in advance.
 |
